After a day of rest, we still didn't feel like we could move well. A non committing sport climbing crag sounded amazing and we knew we still needed more time to recover from Fiddler.
Day 4 - Leor took us to a crag called Cannibis. It was mainly directly in the sun but we didn't even care. We got on some warm ups then got on some mega classics called Synapse Collapse, KGB, and Cannibis. It was a really nice try hard day that ended with all you can eat sushi, and it really doesn't get much better than that.
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| Alex on Synapse Collapse |
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| Leor on Synapse Collapse |
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| Me on KGB |
After much contemplation on doing another big day, Alex and I decided we were ready for Inti Watana. We wanted to summit the highest peak in Red Rocks, and Mount Wilson it was! We had little time to get ready as it was already 2300 the night before and we wanted to wake at 0500. Not that any sleeping happened anyways, I was far too excited.
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| Beautiful Mount Wilson! |
The approach to Inti Watana sucks. Period. It was an hour flat, sandy 'one step forward two steps back' walk to an hour of scrambling up talus rocks. The reason I hate this kind of approach is my legs are totally wimpy. They get pumped so much faster than the rest of my body. This was like torture to me, just give me something to hold and climb UP and use my arms. Gah! At least the scenery was nice!
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| Approach to Inti Watana |
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| Approach to Inti Watana |
When we finally reached the first pitch, there was another party in front of us. I thought for sure we were not going to be able to climb fast enough now and we had a specific goal in mind to get to the summit. We wanted to get to the top of Inti by 1500 at the latest so we could at least reach the summit by 1700 via Resolution Arete. Luckily, the party ahead of us let us bypass them and we were off!
I started with the crux pitch and we pretty much alternated after that. The climbing was consistent jug flake after jug flake. I began to not even really look above me, I just let my body move. It's funny, I actually have this recurring dream that I am climbing up a never ending crimp face. Something I always thought I would do only in my dreams but this climb was literally my dream come true! My face hurt from the stupid perma smile I wore all day long. I also got to pull a super sweet exposed roof move on Pitch 9 which was pretty incredible.
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| Honnolding on the belay ledge of Pitch 9. |
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| Belay Spot on Inti Watana |
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| Looking down Inti Watana |
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| Pitch 11-12 Inti Watana |
Inti Watana is supposed to be 12 pitches. We combined 1-2, 5-6, 8-9, 11-12 and had a total of 8 pitches. We reached the top of Inti by 1300. We were psyched! Next, it was onto Resolution Arete in order to summit Mount Wilson.
Resolution Arete was mentally difficult compared to anything involved with Inti. It involved 80' of 4th class to find this ridiculous hole in a pillar. Then, Alex solo'd and I got hip belayed to the top of the chimney feature with the "5.9 move at the lip." Next was the 120' walk on "exposed sidewalk ledge," which for me involved a leap across a 2 ft open spot at which point I thought I may poo my pants.
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| "Sidewalk" to get to Resolution Arete pitches |
Then was a 5.8 and 5.7 pitch before the 600' of 4th class scrambling to the SUMMIT! Granted the climbing on this part was not as difficult, but most was rope less, and the pitches that Alex did lead were all gear so this portion of the climb took significantly longer than predicted.
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| 4th class scrambling on Resolution Arete |
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| Beautiful look out onto Red Rocks |
Getting to the summit of Mount Wilson will daylight leftover was incredible! We were a bit nervous the day before but we went in with a mission and did not look back! We climbed Inti Watana with speed and efficiency and Resolution Arete with caution and persistence. Once again, our combined skills were needed and teamwork got us to the top!
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| Summit of Mount Wilson, pure bliss |
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| Summit of Mount Wilson |
The walk down was quite epic and honestly I don't even wanna think about it anymore. At first we had trouble finding the "abundant rock cairns" and were really nervous we were not going the right way as we were losing daylight. We finally found one after about 45 mins of hiking and def felt a sigh of relief. After about 3 hours of heinous down-scrambling in the dark, I saw my first set of eyes. Alex still reassures me that it was a "large rodent." All I could think was there was NO way I was gonna die after a 2 hr approach, 2500' of vertical climbing, and a 3 hour down scramble from a freaking mountain lion. I was prepared for battle. When we finally made it to the car, we had a 14.5 hour day, but WE DID IT!!!!!!!
Summiting Mount Wilson was a whole different challenge compared to Fiddler on the Roof but both taught me the importance of staying focused, trusting your climbing partner, letting your mind go free and enjoying every
SINGLE moment on the climb. That's what it's all about!
Other important things I learned:
1. Peeing on the wall is not as much of an ordeal as I expected. In fact, I found quite the comfortable position and actually didn't mind it one bit!
2. Cliff bars were my best friend. I didn't have an appetite for anything else and the weight to calorie ratio was ideal
3. I actually did need 2 L of water every day (you were right Allan!)
4. All you can eat sushi is the perfect carb loading dinner before a big day
5. Always,
ALWAYS stash a celebratory beer in the car or, if you can handle the little bit of weight, for the summit. Make this a habit people, even warm beer is the best thing ever when you are broken after a long day!
Until next time!
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