Burning Down the House. Jailhouse, California


Thought(s) of the Day: Burning Down the House, 14b

Day:
1: impossible. pulled on every. single. draw. I think I did 5 moves out of the entire route
2: hard, really really hard. so many cruxes, so little rest. need core, crimp, and toe strength
3: two cruxes still impossible, bottom crux right hand +moving off it and top crux big right hand move to crimp
4: only 1 impossible crux now! did upper crux with high weird left chicken wing leg, but need shoulder strength for next gaston move?
5: everything feeling doable now, except bottom crux
6: bottom crux will go soon, time to train my core, fingers and shoulders
7: found new beta for the bottom crux! brushed and chalked two unused holds, shouldery AF
8: made some Abraham Lincolns, found beta for the top also! huge progress. secondary warm up on Soap seemed to help.
9: Whoa 3 hang! found new beta. 
10: bad day, fell at 1st crux.  spent a lot of time getting acclimated to middle crux and clipping from knee. 
11: made it to the middle crux! also, my top crux beta works real good.
12: bad day on it. 1st day back from vaca, cold and wet.
13: a bit better today! Slab is wet and cracks are wet but solidified beta for last bolt.
14: took a break on it and sent Forced Entry. Back today and everything was dry! spent the day cleaning all the holds and making sure things were dry and ready.
15: 2 hung and low pointed. THEN, high pointed and 1 hung! holy crapoly
16: tried 3 times today! 1 hung twice and fell in the same spot trying to get my feet up! WTF CORE?!
17 12/19/18: UGH!!!! We got 1 inch of rain and now BDTH is fucked, bottom crux wet, middle roof soaked, slab unclimbable. NOOOO
18 3/27/19: our first time back at JH since December! Weather has been so wet. I went up after 3 months of being away from it. I couldn’t even do the first boulder off the dog! Everything was *mostly* dry today, LOADS better than December.
19: Fell at first crux today. Tried new beta at the top which is bad… just sticking to what I know. 
20: Wow, despite a bit of rain during our rest day, the route stayed *mostly* dry! IT GOES AGAIN.. LET'S DO THIS.
21: Balmy, rainy, crappy day with only 5 hours of sleep after a rough week @ work. Warmup felt hard. Fell on secondary warmup Life Sentence. Then decided to just go up BDTH and see what may be wet. For some reason, I was able to thoroughly rest at each knee bar, and felt super solid on the boulders in between. I started getting pumped at the top and there was a key hold that was wet but I screamed my way through it. I made it to the roof, rested for 5 minutes, could barely feel my legs. Decided to go. Felt like a million bucks. Even messed up my beta, but kept holding on! I got nervous after the last bolt at this big block (when it should def be over) and I kinda slipped. But I threw a knee in and shook a little. I knew it was done. Finished it up and clipped some anchors! What a pleasant surprise!

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